Sunday, August 23, 2009

Working dogs

While there are many differences in the ways Americans and Indians do things that I find interesting each and every day, I wanted to dedicate an entry to 2 of the more fascinating ones that I came across in the past week.

The first occurred at work. I’ve come to realize a significant amount of differences in work style – first the whole “arriving to work at a certain time” concept doesn’t really apply here, much to my absolute joy. This is not intrinsic to India, speaking with a person from Khatmandu this week I learned it’s a similar culture in most places in southeast asia (perhaps other places as well, this just happens to be the extent of our respective knowledge put together). The Chai Walla is of course quite a nice addition to work. Getting up to make a copy is apparently not something one does here, that’s left to the office boys. Personal space and forethought to other people’s time is not something people care about. In fact I’ve been counseled throughout my first 2 weeks here to “be less formal” and to “barge right in."

Overall I’ve noticed that political correctness doesn’t really seem to exist. People say it like it is, and it’s a refreshing, if sometimes brutally honest, country. However, this does not stop within the workplace. When speaking with a vice president about a process, I asked “who can help me understand this?” to which he tells me a name I don't know and to explain this person he says: “He’s the fat guy with the turban and the beard and he walks with a limp cause his leg is messed up.” Say what??? That’s 4 cases of potential lawsuit in the states. I recover from momentary shock to say, “ah, ok…that’s a good description.” Seriously, I said that. I just didn’t know what else to say. I wonder if I’m “the white girl from boston who drinks a lot of tea.” I can’t help it, I’m addicted to the Chai Walla.

The second eye opening moment occurred Friday night after a few drinks at a swanky joint in bandra. One thing about India which I need to disclose is that there are an inordinate amount of dogs running around the streets, and at night they go into a howling orchestral symphony that lasts about 2 hours. It’s awesome if you re into dog symphonies; I’m not. Anyway, we are on the street chatting and this dog wanders by us and curls up right by the bar door. I know a lot of these dogs are just scavengers but I couldn’t help but wonder what a local thought so I turn to our guide and friend for the evening and ask, “so do these dogs all have owners somewhere or what?” to which my friend laughs. “No.” He says simply. My continued stare brings a rather poignant comment from him, “I don’t really understand Americans and this ‘owning of dogs.’ We don’t bother them and they don’t bother us. They have as much right to these streets as we do.” Well…ok. There are probably more humans sleeping right on the streets of Mumbai than dogs. I guess if you put it that way I get your point. But these dogs -- there is a different story and undercurrent to human behavior when you view their relationship and the sharing of city resources – you never want to touch the dogs but there is never any fear of them either. They wander right along the street next to you or cross the street near you or lay down and go to sleep next to where you are standing – it’s a symbiosis with animals I never have ever felt before and I had to recognize and appreciate that fact. Sure, the streets were dirtier, but the animals were more free.

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